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Sipping
and swirling your way through a wine region is a staple
of contemporary Australian culture, and the Swan Valley
overflows with treats for tasters.
Although the Valley now only produces a quarter of the
wine it made to two decades ago, its making better
wines than ever.
The first impression of a Swan Valley wine is the ample
flavour given by well-ripened Swan Valley fruit. The
chardonnays can be quite a hedonistic experience, as
can semillon and chenin blanc when it is not over cropped.
The cabernet and shiraz varieties are New World wines
in overdrive, the best displaying finesse through balance.
These are not intellectual wines, rather red and white
bombshells that can be enjoyed as stand-alone drinks
or matched with the weighty flavours offered by Swan
Valley cuisine.
The Swan Valley upswing in wine quality through the
last quarter century is exemplified by small family-run
producers, where the real verve and pulse of the Valley
is expressed.
Producers such as Lamonts, Talijancich and Westfield
are champions of diversity and are an especially fine
source of fortified wines.
If sauntering through the Swan Valley for the first
time, a visit to the historic wineries of Sandalford
and Houghton is a required mission.
Houghton is Western Australias largest producer
and it is telling that its most famous wine, Houghton
White Burgundy, sports a regal blue stripe worn like
a sash. Ever the princely quaffing wine, this white
blend is one of Australias favourite wines. The
revitalised Sandalford estate is in cracking form producing
an array of improved wines and also features a guided
tour with a historic driven angle that is second to
none in Western Australia.
Instead of tackling the several hour journey from Perth
to Margaret River or the Great Southern, remember that
over 170 years of viticulture is a casual drive away.
by Benjamin Barraclough - Wine Writer

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